NPS #11: Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site in St. Louis, Missouri

Ulysses S. Grant Home

When you think of National Park Service (NPS) operated sites within or near St. Louis, you likely think of The Gateway Arch.  Build in extra time for another site near the city - the Ulysses S Grant National Historic Site, also operated by NPS.  Ulysses S. Grant was known as a victorious Civil War general who saved the Union and the 18th President of the United States, serving two terms.  Grant's military career helped him find his love on a plantation called the White Haven.  Grant's former West Point roommate, Frederick T. Dent, invited him to the 850 acre plantation.  It's where Grant met Fred's sister Julia.

Taking the tour

After serving in the Mexican-American War, Grant returned to marry Julia.  You can step onto the porch where he proposed.  Grant lived with his wife Julia and their four children, Julia's parents and siblings, and enslaved African Americans who lived in separate cabins in the 1850s.  They also worked on the farm, growing fruits and vegetables.  The home has been many shades from beige to gray to green to white and returned to green, the color chosen by the Grant family.  Green was a popular color during the Victorian Era.

Photo by Krenda

President Abraham Lincoln appointed Grant as Commanding General of the U.S. Army.  After the Civil War, the Grants began purchasing the property and had a dream of making it a horse-breeding operation.  Julia was an equestrian, enjoyed nature, and had fond memories of the home.  

Time your visit right for a guided tour (offered every 30 minutes or hour), the only way to enter the home.  Budget approximately 45 minutes for the tour.  After the official tour, you can also see the other remaining structures which include the ice house, chicken house, summer kitchen, and horse stable.  It's the horse stable where you will find the park museum with multiple exhibits.  Before or after the tour, consider learning more through a 22-minute orientation film.

Years prior we had also learned about Grant by visiting Grant's birthplace in Point Pleasant, Ohio (located Southeast of Cincinnati).  It's operated locally and admission is only $3.  The house was donated to the State of Ohio and the state invested over a million dollars to restore the house in 2013.  Nearby, you will also see his schoolhouse.  In his later years, Grant lived in New York.  Grant Cottage in Mt. McGregor, New York is a national historic landmark and you can tour for $9.

 

NPS #10: De Soto National Memorial and Florida History

History and nature come together at the Hernando De Soto National Memorial in Brandenton, FL.  Don't confuse this site with the Fort De Soto Park in St. Petersburg, Florida.  The National Park Service (NPS) operates this memorial.  The government authorized the memorial in 1948 to keep the story of Spanish conquistador and exploration.  

When we travel to new regions, we like to talk about the unique plants to the area.  Just getting out of the car, you will see a Gumbo Limbo tree, native to Southern Floridan and the Caribbean.  When you go into the visitors center, you can dress up in armor and watch a short film about the Spanish explorer Hernando De Soto.  You'll appreciate the no cost entrance.

He began exploring at an early age of 14, taking a trip from Spain to Panama.  He served Balboa and partnered with Hernan Ponce de Leon.  De Soto traveled from Spain to Cuba to Florida with nine ships and 600 soldiers.  As one of the earliest European explorers of North America, his expedition landed on Florida's west coast in 1539.

Fortunate timing allowed us to visit Camp Uzita, the living history camp operating December to April.  Men in period costumes provided in-depth demonstrations, taking us through time while demonstrating different weapons.

After hearing the history, we took the half-mile trail on the south shore of the Manatee River.  NPS places history stories along the trail.  You might also see animals such as birds, fiddler crabs, pelicans and gulls, egrets, and herons.  Beyond the mangroves, you will see the water.  The park includes a small beach called Cove Beach.  We had good timing.  During the week, we walked along the shore as the only family exploring.  Another great time to visit is during one of their fishing clinics (age 7 and up) or a 1.5 hour ranger led kayak tour. Visit the NPS website for event information and keep exploring.

NPS #6: Wild Ponies & Assateague Island National Seashore

The children's book Misty of Chincoteague helped make the ponies on Assateague Island the most famous mammals on the island.  Some believe that the wild ponies of Assateague arrived on the island when a Spanish cargo ship sank off the coast and the horses swam to shore.  Others believe the wild ponies descend from colonial horses allowed to run loose.  While the history remains uncertain, I'm certain your kids will enjoy seeing wild ponies.

Some sites will call the famous ponies "wild horses" and others will call them "wild ponies".  They are called ponies because they fall under 14.2 hands (85 inches).  The ponies are feral animals, descendants of domestic animals that have reverted to a wild state, which roam freely and feed mainly on saltmarsh cord grass.  You can see them from a distance by visiting Assateague Island along the coast of Maryland or Virginia.  We visited from the Maryland side through the Assateague Island National Seashore.  According to Patricia Schultz’s book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, the Maryland side is the more popular entry point “Two-thirds of the island is in Maryland, where a good portion of the 2.5 million annual visitors gain access”.

The National Park Service dedicated the land as a national seashore in 1965.  For nine other National Seashores, visit my article.  Also visit the nps website for tips.  I should have read their tip to wear bug spray considering the mosquitos and biting flies.  We hiked to see the ponies from a viewing platform which was a beautiful site.  However, we paid for it in bug bites.

You can support the conservation efforts by fostering a horse through the Assateague Island Alliance.  You could also visit the Pony Penning Day auction in July.  Once a year a portion the Salt Water Cowboys from the Chicoteague Volunteer Fire Company round-up the ponies to swim across a channel at low tide and many are put up for action.

Assateague Island makes the list of the Smithsonian magazines "The Best Places to See Wild Horses in North America".  Five other places make the list:
1.  The Virginia Range (NV)
2.  Theodore Roosevelt National Park (ND)
3.  The Pryor Mountains (MT & WY)
4.  Outer Banks (NC)
5.  Sable Island, Nova Scotia (Canada)

Assateague has more to explore than just observing ponies.  Your kids will enjoy seeing or hearing the many birds on Assateague.  The island has over 320 species of birds.  This includes the piping plover, a threatened species that nests on the island.  Besides admiring wild animals, the island offers clamming, swimming, hiking, four wheel driving, and kayaking.  With so much diversity, it's no wonder that Assateague attracts over a million visitors per year.